The past two Shabbats, I have been spending my afternoons outside of a parking lot. You might be thinking that Ethan has finally lost it and the the Jerusalem weather is going to his head. Or you may be asking yourself, Why is Ethan going to a parking lot when there are so many beautiful places to spend the Sabbath in Jerusalem, from parks to the old city, or to his own bed. And you may even be asking yourself if this is the parking lot that Joni Mitchell sang about in "Big Yellow Taxi."
Those are all good questions and thoughts, but the real reason why I am spending time outside of a parking establishment is that there have been protests every Shabbat afternoon since my arrival seven weeks ago to this "Holy" City (though you wouldn't know it was holy if you were strolling by the parking lot on Saturday).
Why have there been protests you may ask?
It is because the parking lot is open on Shabbat. (I know--on Shabbat... I can hear your gasp of utter dismay over the internet).
It is because the parking lot is open on Shabbat. (I know--on Shabbat... I can hear your gasp of utter dismay over the internet).
Now for a little background... (and for a more in-depth background of the situation visit this site, the reflection was written by Rabbi Stanley Davids who I traveled with to the protest). Jerusalem citizens elected a new secular mayor, after there was a division between the ultra-orthodox sects during the last election. Since coming into in office, the mayor realized that there was no place for tourists to park (Jewish and non-Jewish) when visiting the Old City on Shabbat, so he decided to open up the municipal parking lot, outside of the Jaffa Gate (one of the gates of the old city). All visitors can park here for free on Saturday so they can visit the many holy sites of the Old City. Yet, a sect of the ultra-Orthodox Haredi didn't like the mayor's decision to open up the parking lot, as they consider this a violation of Shabbat, and to show their disgust they have been protesting every Saturday afternoon since the opening.
As a Jerusalem resident for the year, I decided to check out the protest. And it has been one of the most enthralling yet disturbing and disgusting things I have ever witnessed.
At about 6 PM sharp.... you start hearing people yelling in a low, monotone voice, "Shabbos..." You hear it first, and then all of a sudden a flood of men and boys dressed in black and white, with black hats, kippot, pay'es and beards emerge onto the sidewalks and streets surrounding the entrance and exit to the parking lot. Israeli police forces and soldiers are around the parking lot trying to maintain order as members of this Haredi sect start running into the streets, sitting down in front of cars, pushing the soldiers, and continuing to yell "Shabbos... Shabbos... Shabbos...."
Then a protester or two sits down in the middle of the road. After about 20 seconds, a group of police officers pick up the protester and bring him back to the sidewalk. Sometimes it gets a bit more physical, and two officers on horseback ride around to disperse the crowd, which seems to be pretty effective (from my two weeks at the protest I have come to the conclusion that the longer your pay'es -- sidelocks -- the bigger coward you are). When you think it can't get any worse, the mob starts yelling "Nazi Nazi" at the Jewish police and soldiers and spitting at women who are walking by who are showing too much skin for their liking.
There are a few counter-protesters, yelling back at the mob. Pointing out there are other ways to be Jewish. Yelling at them for fighting against other Jews. But their words are shot down by chants of "Shabbos... Shabbos... Shabbos..."
Each week, when I leave the protest, I'm disgusted. I'm disgusted that I stayed and watched it for so long... Disgusted at this group of Haredi men who don't pay taxes to Israel, don't join the Israeli Army, who don't bring anything to Israeli society except hatred towards people who do not practice the same Judaism that they do. This is no way to celebrate Shabbat. I want to shake the protesters and tell them, "Go take a Shabbat nap--you would be so much happier."
This parking lot needs to stay open, the mayor and the municipality should not fold because of a few hundred men who have nothing better to do than protest an opening of a parking lot. Jerusalem needs to be a city where all types of Jews can feel comfortable and welcomed to practice their own type of Judaism.
